By will-buy
The carved out contour and full beat signified 2010s Instagram perfectionism, much like vibrant 80s makeup was a big nod 'yes' to disco culture.
We're in a new decade now, that departed towards the most bizarre of starts, with makeup took a backseat with assorted lockdowns and mask wearing.
But now we're inside a fresh season, feeling well informed about navigating the world, with parties ahead as the end of the year nears.
So beauty is back over time of wearing less and being more functional than playful (for example wearing just enough to appear 'done' in Zoom calls, although not in the way you'd normally mix, blend and apply).
It's an ideal time, as autumn is definitely a thrilling moment in beauty: services launch en mass, trends change, and xmas line is revealed.
Terry Barber, director of artistry at MAC Cosmetics, says: 'The fact that this AW coincides with emerging from a pandemic where makeup virtually took a back seat, has definitely led to a more experimental season with a new excitement around makeup.
'Styling is encompassing from raw 90s inspired street-chic beauty to full disco glam with bold colour and high gloss details.
'It's definitely a step away from the generic, Insta style beauty which ruled the final decade.'
While some key pillars of autumnal beauty will make their mainstay appearance (such as a vampy lip or smoky eye), there are some something totally new to look out for, for example glossy textures which tend to be apparent in the summer.
Here's a round-up from the trends to watch out for.
Colours and tones
Jo Baker, celebrity makeup artist, says makeup could be a 'reflection from the seasons', so as we transfer to gloomier months, looks have that bit moodier and colours deepen.
The difference this season – perhaps a manifestation of our becoming accustomed to wearing less – is that traditional autumnal colours (orange, plum, forest green) are being worn in subtler ways, with colours appearing 'muted', Jo explains.
From eyes to nails, these downplayed versions of classic autumnal colours are showing, such as in Nailberry's new short time To Hygge collection, which utilizes rich colours that don't feel particularly bold.
One of Jo's favourite looks for the season is to wear deep green eyeliner – a colour that's having a moment in itself.
'From a distance it looks black, but close-up you can observe it's slightly different,' she informs us, adding that green is a little softer when framing the eyes.
Her favourite product with this is Sisley Phyto-Khol Star Waterproof in Matte Jungle, which glides simple for precise liner or could be smudged out like shadow.
She says doing this allows you to try new things together with your makeup, and keep it wearable and subtle.
'People would like to look the best versions of themselves,' she says, therefore it is not about simply going for full drama when incorporating trends into your look.
New shirt is having their moment, as Terry adds: 'The utilization of colour, over multi-shaded neutrals, is probably one of the biggest new movements, whether that's a high glam jewel toned eyes which look like you've just stepped out of Studio 54, or even more delicate “blush eyes” in dusty coral, sand or petal pink for fresher, more effortless beauty.'
It's a breakaway in the beiges and browns that experts are putting down in favour of colours that perk up the face.
Terry's trends for playful, the fall and winter looks
Terry Barber, MAC's director of makeup artistry, says these are trending makeup looks from the moment.
'A vinyl mouth is really a timeless classic and possibly one of the easiest statements you can make in beauty.
'The joy of Clear Lipglass is how it provides a nearly surreal degree of shine and that means you can get away with wearing hardly anything else.'
'The effortlessness and funky of the '90s is a recurring theme in beauty and working in certain grunginess has become a new design classic.
'Whether that's an angst-y black line, using Eye Kohl in the waterline or adding balm to the lids for a more slept-in glam.'
'The idea of an attractive glassy skin texture is definitely obtaining a reality check – with glistening a healthy body replacing robotic coverage and heavy-handed highlighter.
'It's an all over glow that actually works in life, using products like Strobe Cream not only with selfie filters.'
Textures and finishes
Years ago, AW editorial looks were symbolic of matte finishes. Jo says nowadays are – for now, a minimum of – over.
'People want their skin to appear like skin with regards to foundation – glowy skin is what's dominant now and healthy skin is on trend throughout the year,' she says.
The ideal finish is 'featherlight weight' using the 'ability to make skin look better without seeing any product at all up close'.
It's about swapping a basis for any tinted moisturiser or hybrid product like Bobbi Brown Intensive Skin Serum Foundation that has been reformulated recently, or sheering an item out with a reflective primer, for example Vieve Skin Nova which has been a sellout.
Terry echoes this sentiment, explaining: 'Even though there's a new excitement about going back to makeup, its combined with a brand new consciousness about how exactly much people wear and just how it's styled.
'People are seeking foundation items that possess a more skincare quality to them and colour which is beautifully textured and not overdone.
'Transparency and luminosity are key to new beauty rather than dense coverage and packed on pigment – even a full face of glam is about showing some skin in luxurious, enhancing textures.'
In line with a more radiant complexion, lips, lids and cheeks are becoming shinier too as gloss has its moment once again.
Jo's favourite for clients is Lisa Eldridge Embrace Gloss in Songbird, which for her enhances and lifts the face area in a natural way, while gloss catches the light.
As coverage lessens, texture and finished become even more important, which is perhaps why we're seeing shine take centre stage.
Glossy product finishes are now being seen in brands like Jones Road, who just launched a brand new Lip and Cheek Stick and Tower 28, whose coveted BeachPlease Luminous Tinted Balm sits comfortably on skin (all without coming at the cost of pigment, as this is where balms can fall short).
Techniques and application method
Application is steering from perfection, towards smudged, blurred and unprecise makeup.
'Mixing and layering are the techniques of the moment,' Terry says.
'Customising the skin products by mixing bases and concealers with skincare for the perfect sheer finish, or rubbing colour into your features to produce tints and stains which enhance you rather than transform are techniques which makeup artists usually have used however are resonating with everyday makeup wearers.'
Makeup by Mario's Master Metals palette is a dream for this, given that you can use it having a liquid to control the texture from powder to foiled cream, leaving the possibility to customize the color itself through combining shades.
Milk Makeup's new Bionic Blush, having launched years following the brand's popular first blush line, seemed to be made for this kind of application.
The brand's global studio artist, Sara Wren, says: 'You can use whatever method you want best to use it – your fingers, a makeup sponge, or perhaps a brush.
'We recommend shaking the tube, then squeezing a small dot onto the back of the hand so you have control over just how much color you develop.'
Mismatched techniques that permit you to enjoy the entire process of putting makeup on are also quick, usually easier, and play well to cream products that brands are continuing to produce due to demand.
Hair trends are an extension of makeup this season
Just as shiny, glossy textures are being amplified in makeup, exactly the same is going on in hair.
Percy & Reed salons are managing a new Vinyl Gloss treatment 'till the end of the year which is about 'giving the finest version of what you have'.
Paul Percival, founder of the brand, informs us the service uses 'an amino free liquid gloss that tones and glazes the hair called Redken SEQ Gloss.
'The formula is infused with wheat acids that help to condition your hair and leave it looking super shiny.'
Brown hair, typically speaking, has natural shine than hair which has been bleached, which can be vulnerable to dullness as dye dries out the shaft.
James Pecis, session stylist, tells Metro.co.uk individuality and what's 'natural' is what hair trends are embracing this year – as is the situation in makeup.
'I believe that since individuals have been celebrating the way nature has created them, brown hair is just about the new blond since the majority of the world is really a shade of brown.
'Most people have brown hair of some extent so that they are likely to the salon for a gloss allow it extra shine and life or getting those greys covered.
'The less you wash and dry, the more the vibrancy will last.'
Oribe's newly launched Tres Set Texture Spray is made to perform the shine part at home. Reimagining mousses, it sets and strengths lengths, rather than sitting crunchy.
Speaking around the vibe of this seasons' go-to looks, Terry says: 'I guess should there be a dominant feeling, is the fact that it's for yourself, not the approval or judgement of others.
'You can pick the face you would like, rather than one that's provided to you with a strict algorithm. It is not about looking perfect, its about wearing your flaws really well.
'Ultimately, that which you choose in makeup is about what you would like to say and how it makes you feel.
'There is a new sense of looking cool, effortless, unique, self-assured and experimental.'
Time to get a green eyeliner.
