By will-buy
This summer Kate Winslet says she uses two shades of foundation. Why?
Not for extravagance but to tackle her cyclically changing complexion. She said that at the start of her period, her skin tone looks more even but through the middle it flares up and becomes redder.
So Kate is becoming her own makeup mixologist, blending a darker shade into her regular, lighter base for many customised camouflage.
'Hormonal fluctuations driven by oestrogen and progesterone can alter the skin's tone and texture,' says Dr Vicky Dondos, cosmetic doctor and author of The Positive Ageing Plan.
'The skin's natural defence barrier can become more permeable just before your period, reducing its immune function and letting in more irritants. It's also a tough time in terms of mood and sleep. Together, they all change up the skin, which makes it duller and more vulnerable to flare-ups.'
For those of us attempting to make peace between a temperamental complexion and a foundation shade, nowadays there are lots of smart options for finding a skin-matching compromise.
A little mix
To target monthly red patches and imperfections, make-up artist Ciara O'Shea – who counts actresses Gwendoline Christie and Jodie Comer as clients – recommends using two different foundation weights as well as shades.
'Using the lighter tone around the centre from the face keeps it looking bright and fresh,' she explains. 'Adding foundation that's half a shade darker having a heavier texture round the outer edges and jawline can create the impression of contours and help conceal breakouts or flushing.'
For a seamless finish, Ciara suggests applying foundation with Sculpted by Aimee Perfecting Duo Brush (lb17).
'Use small end to smooth foundation specifically the centre of the face, then your bigger, fluffier brush along with a light pressure to buff the deeper tone in circular movements therefore it is invisibly blended,' she says.
Sold separately but handily stackable, Trinny London Only a Touch (lb28) is available in 25 shades.
Specifically targeting redness, the cream texture is light enough to depart the complexion luminous but buildable enough to be used as concealer.
Adjust the setting
Some foundations will do the mix 'n' match work for you thanks to hi-tech wizardry that automatically tweaks the tone as they choose your skin. L'Oréal Paris True Match Nude Plumping Serum (lb13.99) is a great hybrid that mixes hydrating serum and sheer foundation with hyaluronic acid.
They say the nine-shade line-up matches 99% from the UK population, giving a glowing and light-weight result.
Meanwhile, Boots has analysed 1.9 million skin tones to produce the true-skin matches for No7 Intelligent Colour Foundation (lb16.50). It comes in four variations and can be built up for added coverage.
Just a drop
To blend together shades à la Kate, pigment-intense colour drops really are a budget-friendly method of altering your fluid foundation. Begin with just a little base in your palm and mix in drops one at a time before you obtain the shade you would like.
Try e.l.f Mix to complement Foundation Shade Adjuster in Bronze (lb4) to deepen fair foundations or perhaps lighten darker ones, while Boutique Foundation Colour Adjusting Drops in Dark ( lb4.50) seem like pigment-rich watercolours.
NYX Professional Makeup Total Pro Drop Foundation Hue Shifter (lb16) is available in warm, cool, dark and light colour versions.
Need more redness coverage? Try Ciara's nifty layering trick: 'Dip your middle finger in to the pool of foundation you've mixed up and drag it from the centre therefore it becomes sheerer. Then pat over the inflamed areas for any more opaque finish without heaviness.'
Custom service
If you want to completely nail your colour in one product, tailor-made formulas are worth the investment. It may sound counterintuitive however for complexions with monthly flare-ups, the secret is to have the tone analysed when skin is misbehaving.
'Get it done when skin is inflamed rather than looking its best,' advises Ciara O'Shea. 'The foundation colour made for you'll be well nuanced and blended to take into consideration undertones including redness so the result looks natural helping perfect imperfections.'
At its boutique in Chelsea, Cosmetics à la Carte offers a bespoke blending service.
The 30-minute appointment allows a make-up artist to personalise the shade and quantity of coverage, as well as adding boosters like shine control and SPF. You can take home an example to test and also the finished bottle is lb65.
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Dcypher allows you to create Custom Foundation (lb28) out of your phone. After scanning the face to analyse the accurate, individual tones in your complexion, choose your skin type as well as the coverage and finished you prefer.
A mini sample will arrive through the post so you can tweak the final version before ordering too.
