To pluck or not to pluck: Beauty pros on the skinny brow trend

When Rihanna appeared on the cover of British Vogue in 2023 sporting pencil-thin brows, it heralded the start of no more our caterpillar eyebrow obsession.

For years prior, we were inside a chokehold of 'must have' pomades, pencils, powders, and stencils – all in the quest for fluffy, bold brows that'd give Cara Delevingne a run for her money.

Thanks to the Y2K fashion resurgence and associated trends like 'Pam-core', however, the so-called Scouse brow has fallen from favour.

Not only shall we be being prompted to party like it's 1999, we're also seeing some distinctly retro beauty, with the likes of Bella Hadid, Barbie Ferreira, and FKA Twigs showing off skinny brow looks.

A new TikTok filter showing users what they seem like with pared-back eyebrows has piqued interest further, racking up over four billion views on the platform. You'll now find thousands of videos from people asking when they should shave or pluck their forehead fuzz to get in on the experience.

Those people who are of sufficient age to remember skinny brows the first time around are perhaps less enthused. Whether your inspiration back then was Gwen Stefani, Drew Barrymore, or Cameron Diaz, you likely dealt with the aftermath of over-plucking long after the Walkman became obsolete.

Eyebrow transplants have been growing in popularity, too, with Chrissy Teigen having one last year, saying: 'Teens, don't pluck them all off like I did.'

But exactly what do beauty experts, who see crazes come and go and sort us out after DIY mistakes, have to say?

We spoke for them to see if they're pro or skinny brows, in addition to how to work the trend without regrets.

Fides Baldesberger, CEO of Rubis tweezers

'It's extremely hard to return and forth between thin and thick brows. It is because brows, unlike the hairs on our head, grow very slowly, using the entire brow growth cycle taking 3-4 months with no guarantee that they'll grow back full or perhaps in the same way.

'When you pluck hair in the root repeatedly over time, the strain around the follicle damages it enough so that it doesn't grow back, resulting in sparse growth or no growth.

'Even with the aid of growth serums and dietary supplements it may be tough to repair the harm caused by over-plucking and also the only option would be a pricey or painful eyebrow transplant.

'If you need to do decide to continue with your brow grooming, plucking one hair at any given time and then standing back and reviewing in a mirror will help to stop over plucking.

'Also avoid plucking out a brand new brow shape by over-plucking underneath your brows. Concentrate on the strays, and when in doubt use a brow pencil, powder, or pomade to draw your natural shape and provide you with a definite indication of the items hairs to prevent.'

Sarah Fogg, Founder of Brows by Sarah

'As almost as much ast I really like a naturally fluffy brow, I can't deny that celebrities like Bella Hadid look stunning having a slim defined brow.

'Whatever look you are going for, remember that our brows are extremely personal – it isn't 'one size fits all'. Brow trends change a lot quicker than your brows can and so i think you need to wear your brows in a manner that works well with you.

'We all have different needs and certain shapes and colors suit different faces. When you are performing brows in your own home, remember to consider what best compliments your face shape, you want to stick to the natural arch of your brow all the time – particularly when aiming for a “natural” brow look.

'Always make sure to keep your bulb from the brow super soft getting stronger towards the tail, this can increase the risk for most natural looking brow.'

Sian Dellar, Permanent Makeup Specialist

'I don't think the painfully thin, utilized look is ever going to make a revival however, many celebrities are wearing their brows a great deal slimmer than the big bushy brows we have become familiar with.

'I think lockdown includes a part to experience in this new trend. Nobody could keep up with the laminated brow for example, and thus sporting a thinner brow was a lot easier deal with.

'As long because it is done carefully i.e. not shaving them off and drawing them back on as per the popularity of the 60s or even the over-plucking from the 90s, as each method may cause irreparable damage and take years to develop back.

'When choosing a thinner brow, the most common mistakes we see are:

• Over tweezing: The most common eyebrow grooming mistake we have seen! Over tweezing your brows to by having an inch of their life, leaves you with very thin unnatural looking brows. The eyebrows frame the face and give structure, keeping the brows as full as you possibly can and only taking the stray hairs that sit outside the shape prevents them looking too harsh.
• Starting the arch too soon: A pleasant defined brow arch is easily the most requested look we obtain. If however the arch is simply too close to the middle you can look quite angry, like angry bird
• Not blending the color: Blending the colour of your eyebrow pencil or powder keeps it from looking harsh and overdrawn. Once you have filled in natural hairs, use a angled eyebrow brush to blend the color with the brow to soften the perimeters. A clear brow gel can keep brows newly made.

'By all means opt for a thinner brow, but quote that this trend is likely to be short lived and the fuller brow is here to remain, so go easy or else you shall be make payment on price (literally!) thereafter!'

Saffron Hughes, MUA at FalseEyelashes.co.uk

'For some people, based on their face shape and features, skinny eyebrows can be a more flattering option – in these instances pluck until your heart's content.

'As a full, fluffy brow lover, this trend provides me with the fear when i spent a good amount of time growing my eyebrow hairs back after plucking them to one inch of the life back in high school.

'For those wanting to give skinny eyebrows a try, I recommend doing it in phases in the event you regret your decision or convince you, so they won't take so long to develop back.

'Always be cautious and don't forget that over-plucking can lead to permanent damage and could cause your eyebrow hairs to not re-grow. I recommend utilizing an eyebrow growth accelerator treatment to assist using the growth of your eyebrow hairs.'