By will-buy
Skincare is booming at the moment.
From acids to exfoliants, peels to injectables, we're all putting more effort into our beauty regimes, and we're trying lots of something totally new.
Each new beauty trend feels exciting and innovative when it bursts to the scene. They promise radiance, prolonged youth, an inner glow.
But before we rush to splash our hard-earned money on the most recent skincare trend available on the market, have you considered if they're actually great for the skin? Is it doing any damage?
Many of us are seeking a quick fixes, or instant results with regards to facial treatments, but this mentality might be doing more harm than good.
Dermoi's chief scientific officer, Eve Casha, has reviewed the very best facial treatments on the market to reveal which popular treatments may actually harm the skin and accelerate photoaging in the long term:
Deep micro-needling
'Micro-needling is really a newer treatment that involves creating microchannels (tiny holes) within the skin to stimulate wound healing responses, collagen production, and increase penetration of topical products,' says Eve.
When performed properly, Eve says micro-needling treatments have been shown to be extremely effective with minimal disruption towards the skin barrier.
'However, many micro-needling treatments involve aggressive movements and micro-needling devices with long needles,' she says. 'This causes trauma to the skin and it has proven to result in facial scarring (tram track scarring), pigmentation issues (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), or infection.
'A credible source for micro-needling treatments where the micro-needle depth and procedure are controlled is essential.'
Dermaplaning
This beauty treatment is a current viral trend which involves scraping a blade over the skin for exfoliation – and also to remove thin hairs (peach fuzz) to give an instantly smooth finish.
'However, there's minimal scientific evidence copying dermaplaning for just about any skin benefit,' says Eve.
'In addition, laser hair removal is normalised for at home and consistent use, but repeated use might have negative consequences for the skin barrier, leaving skin responsive to UV radiation, free radical damage, inflammation, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.'
Medium-depth facial peels
'Chemical peels induce deep exfoliation to stimulate cell renewal and facial rejuvenation,' says Eve.
'They are categorised based on how deep they exfoliate within the skin and have been used for decades.'
Eve says the superficial facial peels exfoliate the skin, however, medium-depth and deep facial peels exfoliate down to the dermis.
'Medium-depth facial peels cause damage to dermal proteins as well as cell death, swelling and severe damage to the skin,' Eve explains.
'They require extensive 'down-time' following the treatment in which consumers cannot go to work, must shield in the sun, and are at risk of infection.
'These peels ought to be performed as one-off procedures, but many are trying to find medium-depth treatments regularly causing repeated trauma to healthy skin.'
Microdermabrasion
Microdermabrasion is really a non-invasive physical exfoliation procedure that removes your skin barrier.
'The treatment can mildly assistance to smooth skin surface texture, hyperpigmentation, and stimulate changes to collagen production after multiple sessions,' says Eve. 'However, microdermabrasion is very abrasive and results in massive disruption towards the skin barrier.
'This leaves your skin in a compromised state that is inflamed and much more susceptible to damage from the environmental free radicals and UV radiation. This can aggravate skin conditions and can increase photoaging over time.
'Certain studies on microdermabrasion will exclude clients with sensitive skin tones or perhaps a tendency for scarring because they are at higher risk for complications.'
Hydrafacial
Hydrafacials use a technique called hydradermabrasion.
'In the Hydrafacial procedure, hydradermabrasion is combined with a chemical peeling serum, accompanied by pressure extraction, and an antioxidant rich serum,' says Eve.
'While hydradermabrasion is more gentle than traditional microdermabrasion and can clear comedones (whiteheads/ blackheads) and stimulate collagen production, the strategy itself disrupts your skin barrier and it is likely to be sensitising for many.
'For those with inflammatory acne, rosacea, or general sensitivity, such abrasion and extraction may increase problems.'
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So, what don't let do for the skin instead?
'While some may look at the complications of certain facial treatments and assume the risk is low, with time, repeated use of such treatments is wounding the skin and making skin disorders worse,' says Eve.
'We have to re-learn our method of skincare and alter how we care for our skin.'
Researching all procedures and beauticians ahead of time is essential, and often less is much more when it comes to looking after your skin.
